Man and his watch

We had the chance to speak briefly to the talented avant-garde watchmaker, Alexander Shorokhov, who makes his watches in Germany to the exacting standards of the German master watchmakers. We spoke about his brand, Alexander Shorokhoff and his thoughts about watchmaking thanks to local distributor and retailer, http://redarmywatches.com

Shorokhov and wife, AllaShorokhov and wife, Alla

  • Tell me about your watches: It’s the mix of Russian soul and expression and German quality that make our manufacture watches extraordinary.
  • Is it difficult to source for vintage movements in some of your watches?: Of course it is difficult due to high demand. I have special connections to find these movements.
  • Congratulations on passing a quarter of a century in making watches. Anything you would have done differently in hindsight?: I believe in moving step by step. I believe it is with this experience that I am able to make fantastic watches. I have to say I don’t want to have anything changed because of what I can do now. We have to build that base before we can move forward. Although I believe I could have been a fashion designer if I did not become a watchmaker.
  • Asians tend to be more concerned about brands when it comes to watches. How do you plan to overcome this when working with your retailers?: Of course the brand is important and lends confidence to the watch owners. Our target is all about people who respect themselves and trust their own style. I want my customers to choose the watches for themselves and want them to be leaders in thinking in their own groups. I believe in my watches.
  • Which of your collections do you think represent you better?: I am a creative person and I think my Avant-Garde collection is closer to my heart.
  • Do you have any messages for your Malaysian watch lovers?: Trust yourself. Buy what you feel is good. Don’t be pressed by advertising!

He also showcased some of his watches that highlight design features he is famous for (including some award winners).

Crossing
Crossing
Sixtythree
Sixtythree
Regulator
Regulator
Barbara
Barbara

And a highly complex and intricate Poljot International Globetrotter. Shorokhov is also responsible for this brand.

Poljot International Globetrotter
Poljot International Globetrotter
Poljot International Globetrotter
Poljot International Globetrotter

Please visit the local Red Army Watches boutique to view these watches first hand!

 

Just Right

Named after the Greek god who is the son and herald of Poseidon, ruler of the seas, the Orient Triton continues the proud tradition of the Japanese brand in producing high quality dive watches at reasonable prices. The new Triton slots itself in between the highly rated Orient Pro Saturation Diver and the ever popular Mako II and Ray watches. It also essentially replaces the M-Force range.

Orient Triton ORRA-EL0003B

Orient Triton ORRA-EL0002L

Orient Triton ORRA-EL0001B

All 3 Triton models showcase the brand’s ability to produce truly solid and robust dive-capable timepieces. The construction of the watch lends a lot of weight and it would be an understated to say that it has presence. With anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal, the watch offers great legibility with its thickly lumed markers and hands.

Thick lumed markers

The well-made bezel comes with a lovely matte insert and clicks distinctly at 120 clicks. For those seeking a watch to bring out to sea, the Triton is compliant with the Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) for a Class 1 Diver watch.

Screw-down crown

120 click bezel JIS class 1 diver

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Orient Caliber 40N5A automatic, hand-winding, hacking, date aperture with a power reserve of 40 hours and power reserve indicator.
  • Case: 43.4mm stainless steel with screw-down crown and 120 click bezel.
  • Dial: Black/blue.
  • Crystal: Sapphire.
  • Water resistance: 200m JIS class 1 diver watch.
  • Strap:  Stainless steel with double clasp.

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The Triton can be found in Malaysia at selected authorised A. D. Time retailers, Orient retailers and Solar Time branches. The ORRA-EL0001B and ORRA-EL0002L retail for RM2,311 whereas the ORRA-EL003B retails for RM2,500.

The Citizen Fugu is coming!

Many dive watch collectors and tool watch enthusiasts have heard of the Seiko SKX007. And many too have known of that watch’s main rival, the Citizen Promaster NY0040. For a long time, watch collectors had to choose between the two or simply bought both of these fine Japanese dive watches. While the former is still in production, the NY0040 has actually been discontinued for a while although the watch can still be found in possession of some retailers if you looked hard enough. We at HourMarker agree though, on the debate that the NY0040 is the superior of the two watches in terms of fit and finish as well as the movement powering the watch. In fact, there’s even a version of the NY0040 made to pass the stringent tests for use by members of the Marina Militare (Italian Navy).

Anyway, we were just allowed to handle and photograph a revival of the NY0040. These watches will be produced by Citizen and only available for a limited run and when each of these models run out, there will absolutely not be any re-runs! As such, this series of watches are parked under the ‘Citizen Limited’ moniker.

The two that are mentioned in this article are given the nickname the Fugu. The poisonous blowfish can be seen gracing the casebacks of these watches.

Fugu on the caseback.

The first, is the brown dialed and green bezelled NY0082-17X. This version has a rose gold IP on the steel case (to us, it looks closer to bronze).

NY0082-17X

And the other watch we saw is the black dialed, Pepsi bezelled, NY0088-11E.

NY0088-11E

These new releases showcase the same specifications as the NY0040. They will come with rubber straps (and matching buckles). A NATO strap will also be given to each owner.

Comes with the standard Citizen dive strap and matching buckle.

Of course Citizen would not simply release a carbon copy of the NY0040. If you observe closely, you will notice the differences in the dial.

  • The markers have been updated to a more contemporary look.
  • The Citizen Promaster logo is now featured on the dial.
  • The seconds hand has been lengthened to a more appropriate length.

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Automatic Miyota 8203a movement with hacking and day/date display with 40 hours power reserve.
  • Case: 43mm 316L stainless steel with 200m ISO certified water resistance.
  • Dial: Brown on the NY0082-17X and black on the NY0088-11E.
  • Crystal: Mineral with solid engraved caseback.
  • Strap:  Rubber dive strap with matching buckle. A choice of NATO strap will be provided in the box.

The Fugus side by side.

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The official launch date is 1st October 2018 for the NY0082. The brown/green NY0082 is a limited edition (one run only) of 500 pieces. We understand that the Pepsi version of the Fugu is a limited edition of 1000 pieces. Price to be announced. All will only be available at key retail points in Asia.

There will be up to 4 other versions of this to be seen (including an all-dial lumed watch). We are informed that this will be the start of a series of interesting timepieces to come from Citizen. Stay tuned for more info!

Peter goes Stoic

Some of you may already know that famed watchmaker, Peter Speake-Marin, after leaving his namesake brand last year, has embarked on a new project. He is now the co-founder and face of the brand, STOIC.

Peter Speake-Marin and STOIC founders.
Peter Speake-Marin and STOIC founders.

Briefly put, the watches and their story can be seen at Stoicworld.com (where one can already purchase these watches) and he has graciously contacted us to share with us this project. While we await the arrival of the timepieces from this new brand for an in-depth look at them, we congratulate Peter and would like to give an overview about what the initial offerings are.

STOIC first arrives with three watches, simply named The Pilots Watch (#1), The Chronograph (#1) and The Sports Watch (#1), perhaps as to not detract from the watches themselves.

  • The Pilots Watch (#1) – 38mm diameter pilot-styled automatic 3-hand and date watch with leather strap (USD390 including shipping).

  • The Chronograph (#1) – 38mm diameter quartz chronograph with bracelet (USD290 including shipping).

  • The Sports Watch (#1) – 43.5mm diameter diver-styled automatic watch (USD490 including shipping).

STOIC brings a lot of watch for the asking price. They come encased in surgical grade 316L stainless steel and sapphire crystal on both sides (except for the Chronograph which has a solid caseback). STOIC’s timepieces are powered with robust and reliable Seiko movements. All three watches come with applied brand logos on the dial and, on the Chronograph and Sports models, applied indices. One can observe the steel on the bracelets and cases being finished with alternating brushed and mirror surfaces and the crowns are signed. As a bonus, all of the watches come with deployant buckles and are water resistant up to a sporty 100 metres. Extra care has been given to ensure that the watches wear comfortably.

The emblematic words of STOIC, “Nothing is ours, except time.” are etched on the Chronograph case back and applied to the sapphire caseback of the Pilot and Sports watches. These were the apparent words of Roman Stoic philosopher Lucius Annaeus Seneca. 

Seneca's quote.
Seneca’s quote.

As you can see, STOIC aims to be a brand whose watches come at a very affordable price range, especially when considering the quality and attention to detail they offer. They are pure watch done right, and created for those seeking a well-made timepiece without breaking the wallet.

Look out for our in-depth views once we see these watches in person. Let us leave you with an excerpt from STOIC’s first press release…

“Born from a deeply felt desire of true friends who have come together to found Stoic World, STOIC watches, is an amalgamation of reason and passion. Reason stemming from classic and timeless design supported by quality manufacture. Passion belonging to the founders of Stoic World wishing to share a philosophy of life. This idea buried deep in the mind of Peter Speake-Marin, Watchmaker, founder and face of STOIC, is nothing less than the fruit of the coming together of men and women of different backgrounds and cultures but united by common values. These human and philosophical shared values from Hong Kong, London and Paris can be found in Stoic products that are true, honest and good quality. Our customers are the centre of our concerns, our objective is to serve them. This is the Stoic.”

 

 

No Compromise

Richard Lange Pour le Mérite
Richard Lange Pour le Mérite

Easily one of the finest time-only watch ever created, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange ‘Pour le Mérite’ now comes in a white gold case with a contrasting black dial along with matching hands and white Roman numeral markers. It comes as the latest version of the watch succeeding two previous versions. One is a limited edition of 50, with a platinum case and another, in a limited edition of 200 with a pink gold case. Both prior models came with white enamel dials instead.

The fusée-and-chain system provides constant force.

The fusée-and-chain system provides constant force.Whenever the Pour le Mérite designation appears on the name of the watch, Lange would include a horological wonder into the movement of the watch. In this, like all others bearing the name so far, the wonder comes in the form of an excruciatingly decorated movement put into motion by a fusée-and-chain system that promises constant force. The result is improved accuracy.

Richard Lange Pour le Mérite
Richard Lange Pour le Mérite

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Caliber L044.1, manual winding with hours, minutes and small seconds along with fusée-and-chain transmission system with a power reserve of 36 hours.
  • Case: 40.5mm white gold.
  • Dial: Black.
  • Crystal: Sapphire front and back.
  • Water resistance: 30m.
  • Strap:  Black alligator leather strap with white gold buckle.

Richard Lange Pour le Mérite
Richard Lange Pour le Mérite

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This version of the Richard Lange ‘Pour le Mérite’ is a limited edition of 218 pieces and is available in Malaysia at Sincere Fine Watches. To find out more about the watch, please click here.

Blast from the past

Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948
Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948

We took a visit to Sincere Fine Watches to capture some shots of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948.

Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948
Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948

This sublime timepiece from the legendary brand of Vacheron Constantin really hark back to the golden age of watchmaking when watches  are functional, balanced and subtle without neglecting fine watchmaking aspects. It was during a time when Vacheron’s 4240 triple date watch was popular and we believe, this version successfully brings back that cool desirability from that bygone era. Of course, the watch dimensions have been modernized.

Like the original, the watch features triple date indication with a pointer date hand, small seconds and moonphase complication.

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Caliber 4400 QCL with Geneva seal, handwinding with hours, minutes, month in aperture, hand-type date, small seconds at 6 o’clock, day of the week in aperture. Power reserve of 65 hours.
  • Case: 40mm pink gold.
  • Dial: Metal.
  • Crystal: Sapphire.
  • Water resistance: 30m.
  • Strap: Alligator leather strap with pink gold buckle.

Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948
Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948

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The 1948 is a limited edition of 200 pieces and is priced at MSRP MYR154,000. Vacheron Constantin watches are retailed in Malaysia by Sincere Fine Watches.

Nothing to hide

Orient Star DX02001C

Here is the magnificent Orient Star DX02001C (JDM model number WZ0031DX)! The Orient brand name is an old one, with its company being founded in 1901. Today it is owned by Seiko Epson Corporation and is a true manufacture of watches. The Orient Star range of watches are premium timepieces created by the brand and feature fine details and excellent workmanship typical of famous Japanese watchmakers.

This model is made extra special as it features a skeletonized movement which allows one to fully appreciate the workmanship of the watch. The watch is a true dress watch with its slim dimensions and hand-winding movement. We truly admire Orient and Orient Star for offering great manufactured timepieces that are value for money especially for the amount of work done in each watch. The watch also comes in steel and two tone versions.

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Caliber 48E51, handwinding with hours, minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator. Power reserve of 50 hours with hacking mechanism.
  • Case: 39mm gold plated steel case.
  • Dial: Skeletonized and finished.
  • Crystal: Sapphire with mineral display caseback.
  • Water resistance: 50m.
  • Strap: Croco leather strap with folding buckle.

Click to view the full album

Orient Star watches are distributed by A. D. Time Sdn Bhd and can be found at their authorized retailers.

Dive Into The Blue

The ISO rated Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver first came to us last year with a black dial. This time around, a blue version with matching bezel and strap comes in the form of the Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver Blue. Coming with the same specifications, this means that the watch is a true ISO rated diver. We feel that the BR03 case is perfect for this rugged tool watch that has just the right attitude and appeal of that signature Bell & Ross cool factor. And the blue colour differentiates it somewhat from the multitude of other dive watches out there.

As with its black sibling, this watch is going to be very hot. It retails in Malaysia at MYR15,900 and the official boutiques are getting their stock as we type this. Expect authorized retailers to receive theirs soon after so make your bookings soon!

Full specifications are as such:

  • Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.302, automatic with hours, minutes, seconds and date.
  • Case: 42mm satin-polished steel with unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale and blue anodised aluminium insert.
  • Dial: Blue with metal applique skeleton Superluminova®-filled numerals and indices, and metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hands.
  • Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
  • Water resistance: 300m ISO rated.
  • Strap: Woven rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric with satin-polished steel pin.

BR03 Diver Blue
Solid is the new Diver Blue!

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The Aikon Automatic enters

We’re great fans of the popular Maurice Lacroix Aikon and we’re so happy that the the Automatic version is finally here! All this while, fans of Maurice Lacroix and of the Aikon have been hankering for an automatic version. And the brand has answered the calls by not only introducing the watch in automatic form but also an automatic chronograph version. Truly a wonderfully designed watch that’s fit for all times of the day! And best of all, it’s well priced for the quality that the watch represents! We understand that authorised retailers in Malaysia will be receiving their stock soon!

Meanwhile, just enjoy the case and dial of this fantastic timepiece that’s all sporty but can also be dressy at times!

The solid all-new Aikon Automatic

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Happy 20th Anniversary Caliber 9S!

The all-new Grand Seiko Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Limited Edition Hi-beat 36000 SBGH267G has landed in Malaysia. It features an exceptional dial marked with the 1960s Daini Seikosha’s GS initials as well as a blue signed titanium/tungsten rotor.  You can obtain this at the new Seiko boutique in MidValley, Isetan Lot 10 as well as authorised Grand Seiko dealers. We expect it to sell out really soon as we hear that the numbers available in Malaysia are really small!

SBGH267G
The magnificent GS SBGH267G

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